XTR Offroad Tacoma Roof Rack (2016-2023) — Aerodynamic Overland Rack

This is a DIY, no-drill install. You build the rack on the ground, seal and bolt the six feet to the roof, then set the rack on the feet. The illustrated instructions walk through 12 steps.

How Long Does Installation Take?

Times are hands-on time for a first install. Attaching the crossbars to the side fairings takes the most time for one person, because you hold a 48 in bar against a standing side fairing while starting the screws. With two people, one holds the bar while the other starts the screws, which is where most of the time is saved.

The One Step That Needs a Helper

Lifting the rack onto the roof. The assembled rack is about 50 lb and 48 × 63 in, so plan on a second person to lift it and set it on the feet.

Allow 8 Hours for the Sealant to Cure

The RTV at each mounting point needs 8 hours to cure. Let it cure before you drive in rain or wash the truck, then check the headliner around each mounting point for leaks after the first rain or wash.

Tools You'll Need

• 4 mm hex key or bit
• 10 mm combination wrench and socket
• 2.5 mm hex key and 5.5 mm wrench (badges)
• 3/16 in hex key (light-bar brackets, 40 in version only)
• Torque wrench that reads in inch-pounds (the instructions list values of about 49–62 in-lb)
• Tape measure
• Clean, lint-free cloth

Don't use a long ratchet or extension on the M6 nuts; it's easy to over-tighten them.

It fits the 2016–2023 Toyota Tacoma Double Cab (3rd generation). Six feet bolt to the factory roof mounting points, using 10 holes in total, 5 per side. If your Tacoma has a factory roof rack, it comes off first. Two versions are available: a front fairing with no cutout, or one with a cutout for a 40 in light bar.

No drilling and no cutting. The feet bolt into the factory mounting points with the supplied stainless M6 × 40 mm screws. When removing a factory rack, loosen every bolt before you pull any of them out, so the nut plates inside the roof stay in place. To go back to stock, unbolt the feet, clean off the sealant and refit the factory rack, so keep the factory rack and its bolts.

Every mounting hole is sealed. Each one gets an aluminum bushing with black RTV silicone on both faces, and the RTV is included in the box. To protect the seal and your paint:

• Clean around each mounting point before applying the RTV.
• Build the rack on the ground, not on the truck.
• Lift the rack onto the roof with two people.
• Let the RTV cure for 8 hours before driving in rain or washing the truck, then check the headliner around each mounting point after the first rain or wash.

Yes, with a helper to lift the rack onto the roof. A first install takes about 2¾–4½ hours solo, or about 2–3 hours with two people. Allow 8 hours for the RTV to cure before driving in rain or washing the truck. See the installation section above for the time breakdown and tool list.

The rack is rated for 400 lb dynamic (driving) and 650 lb static (parked). The rack itself weighs about 50 lb. Toyota's roof load limit in your owner's manual takes precedence; never exceed it, and remember the rack's own weight counts toward it. The load reaches the roof through crossbars 1, 3 and 5, which sit on the six feet.

The 6 crossbars spread over about 54 in of roof, and tent rails or brackets bolt into the top T-slots with M6 or 1/4-20 T-slot hardware. The crossbars are fixed; slots in the feet allow only a small fore-aft adjustment of the whole rack. Bars 1, 3 and 5 sit directly on the feet. Useful center-to-center spacings:

• 44.3 in: bars 1 and 5, both on the feet
• 30.4 in: bars 1 and 4
• 40.8 in: bars 2 and 6
• 54.0 in: bars 1 and 6

Check your tent's weight against the load ratings above, and remember that the rack's own 50 lb counts toward your Tacoma's roof load limit.

The crossbars are 1020 aluminum T-slot, 2 in wide and 1 in tall, with 6 T-slots each: 2 on top, 2 underneath and 1 on each edge. Accessories made for 10-series T-slot hardware (M6 or 1/4-20) mount directly, as do clamps that fit a 2 × 1 in bar. The side fairings cover the ends of the bars, so to add hardware after assembly, use drop-in (twist-in) T-nuts such as our 1/4-20 10-series drop-in T-nuts, or slide nuts in before the fairings go on. On bars 1, 3 and 5, the bottom slots near each end hold the carriage bolts that attach the rack to the feet.

Yes. Choose the 40 in light-bar cutout version. It comes with a front fairing cut for a 40 in light bar and two light-bar brackets that mount to the front-facing T-slot of the front crossbar with 1/4-20 screws and spring T-nuts. The light bar itself is sold separately; mount it to the brackets following the light-bar maker's instructions.

The rack is designed to stay quiet up to 80 mph, even in a headwind rainstorm. The front fairing ships with a seal already applied to cut wind noise. The front fairing and the side fairings cover every crossbar end, so air goes over the deck instead of across open bar ends. Accessories that stand tall near the front of the rack can add noise.

Any roof rack adds some weight and drag. This one is faired across the front and down both sides, and cargo on top usually has a larger effect than the rack itself.

Yes. The crossbars are powder-coated aluminum, the hardware is stainless steel, and every roof mounting point is sealed. Check the hardware and seals on the maintenance schedule below.

The rack lifts off in one piece. Remove the 12 nuts (10 mm) on the carriage bolts that hold it to the feet, then two people lift it off. The feet stay sealed on the roof, ready for the rack to go back on. To remove the feet too, unscrew the 10 roof screws, clean off the RTV silicone and refit the factory rack.

We don't recommend automatic car washes, including touchless washes. Brushes and cloth strips can catch on the rack and any mounted gear, and the strong detergents used in touchless washes can wear on the finish. Hand wash the rack with mild soap, water and a soft cloth or brush.

• Crossbars: 1020 aluminum T-slot with black powder coat
• Fairings, feet, ribs and brackets: high-strength aluminum
• Hardware: black stainless M6 button-head screws, stainless nylon-insert locknuts, 304 stainless carriage bolts and stainless M6 roof screws
• Mounting bushings: aluminum, sealed to the roof with RTV silicone

The rack is made in the USA and backed by our limited lifetime warranty.

• Re-check all hardware 30 days after your first drive, then once each season.
• Inspect the RTV seal around each roof mounting point.
• Replace any nylon-insert locknut that spins on freely. The nylon loses grip after repeated removal.

Not as standard. The rack and T-slot accessories use standard hex screws and nuts, so gear can come off with a 4 mm hex key or a 10 mm wrench. Lock valuable gear with its own locks.

Contact XTR Offroad support at support@xtroffroad.com or (316) 330-0024. Have your model year, cab style and photos of the problem ready. Parts are identified by part number in the instructions, so include it if a specific part is involved.